How to Read a Knitting Pattern: A Beginner's Guide
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Knitting Patterns Don't Have to Be Intimidating
If you've ever picked up a knitting pattern and felt like you were reading a foreign language, you're not alone. Abbreviations, asterisks, brackets, and gauge swatches — it can feel like a lot. But once you understand the structure, patterns become much easier to follow. This guide breaks it all down so you can cast on with confidence.
Anatomy of a Knitting Pattern
Most knitting patterns follow a standard structure. Here's what you'll typically find:
1. Materials List
This section tells you everything you need before you start: yarn (used to knit the sample and how much for different sizes), needle size, and any notions like stitch markers, a tapestry needle, or buttons. Always read this section first to make sure you have everything on hand.
The yarn listed in a pattern is a suggestion — you can substitute another yarn, preferably of the same weight and fibre type. Just make sure to match the gauge (more on that below).
2. Gauge
Gauge is the number of stitches and rows per 10 cm (or 4 inches) of knitted fabric, measured after blocking. It's the most important part of the pattern and the most commonly skipped — don't skip it.
If your gauge doesn't match the pattern, your finished piece will be the wrong size. Too many stitches per 10 cm means your tension is too tight; too few means it's too loose. Adjust your needle size up or down until your gauge matches.
3. Sizes
Patterns for garments usually include multiple sizes. The smallest size is written first, with larger sizes in parentheses — for example: S (M, L, XL). Throughout the pattern, you'll follow the numbers for your chosen size. It helps to go through the pattern before you start and circle or highlight your size everywhere it appears.
4. Abbreviations
Every pattern includes a key of abbreviations used. Common ones include:
- k — knit
- p — purl
- st(s) — stitch(es)
- rep — repeat
- RS / WS — right side / wrong side
- k2tog — knit two together (a decrease)
- yo — yarn over (an increase, also creates a hole for lace)
- sl — slip (move a stitch from left needle to right without knitting it)
- pm / sm — place marker / slip marker
- CO / BO (or cast off) — cast on / bind off
Always check the pattern's own abbreviation list — some designers use non-standard abbreviations or define special stitches unique to that pattern.
5. Pattern Instructions
This is the main body of the pattern. Instructions are written row by row or round by round. Here are the key conventions to understand:
Asterisks and Brackets
Asterisks (*) and brackets ([ ] or ( )) indicate sections to be repeated. For example:
*k2, p2; rep from * to end means you knit 2, purl 2, and keep repeating that sequence to the end of the row.
[k1, p1] 5 times means you work the sequence in brackets five times in a row.
Working Flat vs. In the Round
Patterns worked flat (back and forth on straight or circular needles) have right-side and wrong-side rows. Patterns worked in the round (on circular or double-pointed needles) are worked continuously in one direction — every round is a right-side round.
6. Finishing
The finishing section covers seaming, picking up stitches for borders, blocking, and any other steps to complete the piece. Blocking — wetting or steaming your finished knitting to set the stitches — makes a huge difference to the final look, especially for lace and colourwork.
Tips for Following a Pattern Successfully
- Read the whole pattern before you start. You don't want to discover a technique you've never tried on row 47.
- Use a row counter or mark your place. It's easy to lose track, especially in complex stitch patterns.
- Knit a gauge swatch. Yes, really. It only takes a little bit of time and can save hours of frogging (unravelling).
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Use your gauge swatch to try out other things. Since you're already knitting up a swatch, use this time tor try out things that are new to you in the pattern, like a cast on method, cable pattern, or short rows.
- Don't be afraid to use stitch markers. They're especially helpful for marking pattern repeats, right side of the material, and the beginning of rounds.
- Take notes. Jot down any modifications you make so you can replicate them on the second sleeve, matching piece, or if you make the pattern again.
Choosing the Right Yarn for Your Pattern
Once you understand the pattern, choosing the right yarn makes all the difference. If the pattern recommends a yarn you do not know, Ravelry is a good place to learn more. (Ravelry is a website for knitters and crocheters with a database of current and discontinued yarns, plus a library of patterns for your next project.) After you understand the suggested yarn’s qualities, you can choose a similar option from the yarns available to you.
Ready to Cast On?
Now that you know how to read a knitting pattern, the only thing left to do is pick your project and your yarn. Browse our full collection to find the perfect match for your next make.